Before I set for Beijing, Guilin was my original target destination, all because of a small street in Yangshuo called West street, a Chinese Kao-San road (Kaosan as the famous Bangkok street), where I have always fascinated by its global village environment. Then came a bubble idea of Yunnan which overwhelmed my desire to Guilin, but fate came still, the arriving news of my deary friends to Hong Kong had stop me from thinking further and made my commitment on Guilin. The place won by the short period of traveling time, not by interest, I concurred in such explanation.

So basically after 8th of October (the date when I came back from Beijing) only had I started to look further on my agenda for this on coming trip. I could not fix the date yet because of air ticket's price uncertainty. But I keep my options more flexible to fit any do-able dates. I spent the next few weeks looking over the Ctrip net for information intensively, almost forgot I had a main job to work on. And lucky me, my effort did pay off well as I managed to get as much useful ideas for my trip, as I not wanted to buy another guide book this time.

Air ticket was always the fuss in my traveling. Due to my limited period of time, I could not have bus or train as alternative options. Thus I only focused on finding the cheapest deal as possible. Thanks to my busy-body colleagues, they helped me a lot in looking a better air fare. Yet I did not satisfy with the return ticket as it was still unthinkably expensive. Finally I made a decision to go wild, so I got my one-trip ticket for RMB620 and would buy the return ticket when I got there. This was something I had never done before, risky, but exciting!

My departure date had set on 10th of November, and I felt lucky on my constant traveling trip these few months, it was a blast for my 2004. So everything got set, and I was ready for adventure!

~Chapter 1 - Bad Luck~

Like Beijing, I went to office first for a nearer distance to the airport, but I left on an early 9.30pm. Checking in, waited, and noticed my flight was delayed for an hour. Darn! I wondered if this was a sign to imply a bad trip. Of course I certainly hoped it was just my superstitious belief, so patience came in and by 11.11am, I safely flew off Xiamen Island and heading to Guangzhou.

I was glad that I had the window seat which I enjoyed the sunny view very much. I could see clouds over clouds beside me, forming beautiful shapes, taking me to cloud nine as this was going to be a much anticipated lonely trip. Around an hour journey later, Guangzhou Baiyun airport was in sight, and it was noon when I reached down, no doubt my stomach was yelling in commotion, unfortunately, the food in Chinese airport was always crazily priced, not to mention they did not have any American fast food chain. A plate of chicken rice would cost me RMB50 plus, it was way beyond my frugal budget, as a result, I took some bread which I brought with me. Tasteless and all, but enough to fill the starvation.

Some meaningless 3 hours later, I on-boarded to a new plane to head for my destination, that was what I had to suffer from cheaper ticket (Still, very much expensive to me!). By 4.05pm, GUILIN! this karstic little town welcomed me with some cold wind and tiny rain, unfriendly invitation, but it did not matter much as I was in such high morale for my exploration. By the way, there was a bunch of Malaysian middle-aged tourists coming with me, making me feel so warm, felt just like being home.

Actually I was scared that I might not be able to get back on time, frankly speaking I am not that spontaneous kind of guy. So on the next 15mins after I arrived in town center, straight away I bought my ticket, with the exact same price from my previous enquiry (RMB740) to secure my home trip. I know I know, I was a coward, but I had a life to carry on, better not spoilt it from just one vacation.

Under an uninvited shower, I strutted and reached Guilin YHA - Flowers, a one month old hostel. Lucky or not, I was the only one in the 5-person bunker, accompanied by a million mosquitoes. Next thing after unpacking (there was not anything much to unpack in fact) was time for some sight-seeing as I allowed myself taking by a bus to city square. I had a formal dinner finally at Stone's Guilin Noodles, first time taste was fine, providing its cheap price.

For tonight I was alone, so I could simply linger around without any concern. I saw the twin pagodas, and the famous waterfall hotel, standing there for 15 minutes to watch tons of water streamed down on its wall, a magnificent view indeed. Guilin city gave me a feeling of Penang, not because of the beautiful night lights, but the little town blooming for attention felt just like Penang's. I did miss home, but since I was here, I might as well enjoy a new sight for my sore eyes.

~Chapter 2 - Mountain People~

First real whole day of my trip, I felt better after some sleep (the mosquitoes just did not seem to quit!). For the next 3 hours I was in a tumbling bus heading to Longsheng Longji (a.k.a. Dragon's Spine), the minority race terraced field territory. The along way view especially nearing my destination was heavenly beautiful, covered by a horde of mist, my bus was having such difficulty to see the road ahead. I reckoned the visibility must be less than 10m, and somehow Mr. kamikaze (the driver) was moving really fast right beside a steeply cliff! yikes!

But I survived! Amazing or not, it was a narrow escape to me, phew~ Later I made some under-table connection with a local to help me getting pass the RMB50 entrance. In exchange, I paid him RMB20 for his "kindness". Now I was in the middle of some 600 year old artificial landscape which our simple-hearted Zhuang, Yao, Miao races had played God to transform this mountain area into a living wonder. Hills over hills of terraced paddy rice fields were built nicely from top to bottom of these hills, I gaped in disbelieving for such an effort that mankind could ever achieved. I always wanted to see this since I came to China, and now it was right in front of me, beside me, and behind me, I was surrounded by a wonder in my imagination! Thanks to the rain yesterday, most of the fields had a decent store of water that reflected the sunlight, making the view even more fantastic!

I then followed an old man who carried his grandson on the way up to Zhuang village. The small trial was really hard to handle, but our old man walked like there was nothing stopping him, he was fast! I had to halt a few times to catch my breathe , while enjoying the view as well taking photos and such, before catching up with him in grinded teeth. It took me another hour hike from Longji to Heping village, I was officially surrendering to nature, and it was really tiring to climb hills, down hills for a never ending story. And did I mention that you had to avoid lots and lots of country "landmine" along the way? The smell was tolerable, but I could not risk my lovely Adidas.

Then I met 3 interesting Yao women, dressed in traditional pink & black costumes, inviting me to go to Big village and stay in their guesthouse and buy their souvenirs and pay them as guide. Of course I declined them due to my budget, but I did followed them taking me to sight no.2 and bought some silver bracelets before coming down for bus. Initially I wanted to walk to Big village, (a 5 hour journey), but looking at my current condition and those lousy stairs, I decided to take bus instead. This brought me to Big Small Zhao (a couple from Shenzhen whose surname are both Zhao). I joined them with another local to dodge from Big village entrance by a small country trail.

It was dark when we finally finished the 2 hour journey, blindly chose a guesthouse for the night. We had "simple" (later found out it was EXPENSIVE!) dinner and some beers, I got a little drunk, but happily went to bed afterwards. I realized that the people here were very friendly; almost everyone would approach you and asked you for meal or home stay in their house. Apparently behind all these friendly smiles were their commercialized marketing strategies... sigh, I was wrong in judging these people, they were not friendly to me, they were to my money.

~Chapter 3 - Yangshuo!~

November 12th, I woke up early at 7am with a very tensed leg muscle, I had difficulty to walk properly. But for the great sight-seeing out there, I had to move! The morning air was cool, and it was really peaceful here, quiet with only birds' singing and insect's symphony. Big Small Zhao were still asleep in another room, so my lonely journey continued to sight 1 & 2, coming back for a bowl of bean pod, then headed to sight 3.

It was then time for some rain, whining myself for not bringing an umbrella, I had to walk in the rain. But I was "singing in the rain, and dancing in the rain, this glorious feeling and I'm happy all over again..." I was all wet but I was happy because I loved being walking in this beautiful place although my muscles were complaining. I was practically singing out loud and spred my joy to people I met on the way. Sight 3 was the greatest of all, due to its height and a wider view, it was worth it to come here, with my soaking wet body (cold).

By noon, after lunch in the guesthouse with Big Small Zhao and a couple of other local tourists, I said farewell to them, leaving this piece of heaven behind my head. By they way, we got conned for our stay as the money we paid was like blood sucking, those bastards!

After this, it was bus, bus and bus. Big village to Longsheng, to Guilin, then to Yangshuo. I could not sleep in the bus, so I watched 3 shows in total: 1999 Golden Tune Ceremony, 30million Wealth and some film starring Leslie Cheung in the 80's. These rides took me half a day to finally reached Yangshuo at 7.30pm. There were a whole bunch of "tour-guide" ladies rushing to serve you, but with my stern look, not many were daring enough to nag at me.

I found my way to YHA before going out again for food. The famous West street was now officially commercialized by a dozen of souvenirs and cloth shops, and every restaurant was famous the most at its beer fish, not to mention those modern fashion stores which were a poke in the eye to match to this little old town. I was disappointed frankly seeing $ sign all over everyone's face, but undoubtedly this was a very happening street, shoppers or window shoppers, all filling up this 600m old street.

~Chapter 4 - Drunk~

Somebody (a Zhejiang Chinese in fact) came into the room and woke me up with the door slamming sound opened up my 4th day. It was still early 8am as I stepped out of YHA for some breakfast - Thinner's Guilin noodle. And then I rent a Giant mountain bike for my day trip tour with RMB10 whole day (good bargain I must add).

I knew where I was going, but did not really know the exact direction, so I just cycled on the main road and avoiding those big tour buses along the way. Here came the savior of the day - Uncle Zhu, a Yulong village native who was wandering around to find customer for his Yulong river rafting tour. We were talking on our bikes and he offered to show me around without a fee if I took his rafting tour. As the bamboo raft was designed for 2 persons, I told him my difficulty and would only agree if he could find me a company. Yet he was still generously guided me to Fuli bridge and then Yulong bridge, without him, I would have pass the junction without further looking.

Sadly, there was no additional tourist around to share the fare, disappointedly he said goodbye to a disappointed me and went looking for new targets. I had no luck this time, so I just rode back to Yangshuo through a country trail, hoping to enjoy a second class view by the river bank. It was a hard ride, with accidental muddy lane within people's farmland. I got lost, injured myself by falling into a bush of thorn tree, made my leg muscles even more tensed, and riding under the scorching noon sun before arriving in town 3 hours later. You can bet I was fully exhausted with an empty stomach as additional suffering.

I spent the afternoon on my bed, dreaming about going out and had lots of fun before getting interrupted again by a British mid-aged lady. By then I remembered about meeting a Shanghainese tour-mate for dinner, so I went out for an ice-cream (bad taste!) and saw them (2 more friends were with her) in Mei You restaurant. 3 girls and I had dinner and then I followed them for another adventure of peeking a free Liu San Jie show.

3 more Guangdong new friends joined our stealthily expedition in a pitch black farmland and orchard by the river. The only source of light was my mobile's and you could imagine how hard it was for us to find the road without getting there before. No doubt that this unplanned agenda was failed 30mins later as we decided to go back to civilization after I fell into another bush of thorn tree (DARN AGAIN!). We watched some lights and little sound on a bridge far from the show to console our misery before heading back to West street.

After 4 drinks of beer in Mei You bar, I was beginning to feel light of myself and started to drift away. They were really enjoyed the clubbing and singing with the performing artists. I found that Chinese were really good at social drinking, I could not even compare to a girl (darn). Another round of beers I was officially drunk and started to talk funny and walked around crankily. I was not sure nor remembering what happened in the next 2 hours in Mei You, but I remembered I came back to hostel safely and drown myself into my bed in 2 seconds. It was the freakiest drunk record I had ever obtained!

~Chapter 5 - Physically Done~

Now I remembered I came back at 3 something this morning when I woke up at an early 8.30am (I, robot!). My brain told me there was an important meeting this morning... Oh yes! It was Big Small Zhao! I met them last night in Mei You and invited them for breakfast as they would leave later that afternoon. So I dragged myself up and chat with them a little over our noodles, took a photo snap and heading towards another meeting I needed to attend - Silvery Cave tour with the 3 Guangdong students I met last night.

The tour was RMB60, including entrance & transportation. With my newly met friends, it was fun to go on tour for the next 4 hours. Silvery cave was situated in Li Pu, some 30km away from Yangshuo, and we passed Moon hill and Butterfly Park on our way. We were scheduled to be in a group with a bunch of middle aged Taiwanese, and with their "ooo"s & "ahhh"s, the tour was going unexpectedly hilarious. Stalactites & stalagmites were all over this vast cave, and with the enhancement of lighting effects and little modern reparation, I almost found myself in a primatic living environment, with a bunch of "ooo" & "ahhh" of course~

By noon, we came back to town in sprinkle weather and I greeted farewell to my fellowship of one morning, going back to a lonely self again. Room 215 now was occupied by a couple (a British & a Korean) who were scuba diving teachers (COOL!). But I had difficulty to talk to them as they seemed unnoticed to my existence, or was I being too sensitive to expect any conversation? Anyway, I lied on my bed, resting my over-spent body (& LEGS!) before falling into an infinity dreamland again.

Karen's call saved me from getting attacked by some gigantic aliens and I mumblingly told her my location, she was somehow shocked but hung up after knowing I was not in the island. I went out for a simple dinner, came back for more rest because I was supposed to do wayfaring on Li river by tomorrow. Then came a new roomy who stayed on the upper bed, a Guangdong Chinese whose Mandarin was sucks! :D I firstly thought he was Japanese or something, judging from his attire and chubby looks(:P). Yet he was too weird to be a Chinese with a lousy Mandarin speaking skill. We talked like 2 hours before he really needed his stomach to be filled.

Today was really wasted as I spent most of the time in bed. Acceptable too though, as I was really tired, and it was raining whole day. Not wanting to admit my failure, I decided to sleep early for a better tomorrow, hoping God would not shed his tears by tomorrow.

~Chapter 6 - Wayfaring~

The Scubas woke me up at 7am opened up my long day. I had usual breakfast and then took a bus to Yangdi, a 45mins ride. It was exceptionally cold today, influenced by yesterday's rain, and also the cold wind coming from the North. I was freezing and shuddering by the river bank to wait for the boat crossing. From there, I met another Guangzhou couple and decided to walk with them.

The view was really great because the high contrast of a green peaceful river and the karstic structures beside it. It was a cloudy morning, although not getting a better snap on the river, yet a comfy day for walking. I enjoyed the country scenery, the chickens, the ducks, the goats, the buffalos, the orchards, the farmlands and the usual shits on the road as well.

After a second river crossing, a small group of visitors caught up with us, they were 3 Guangzhou girls and a couple of French whom I figured following the girls due to their poor communication skill here. So our group has merged and became much more lively. There was a native who rows on a bamboo raft on the river, taking pace with us and sang us some songs with echoes, it was a added bonus.

3 hours later, the famous 9-horse Painting hill was on sight, I stood there and kept counting, still I could only figured out 4 of them, the rest must be too abstractive to be identified. I had a simple snack before crossing the last river crossing to Xingping. This last part of the road was at inner land, so there were not much interesting things to see for the next 1 and a half hour.

Finally completing my 18km journey to RMB20 note's background view scenery, this was the exact angle they took the shot for the note's printings. I felt great because this was the main reason I came here. The sunset had enhanced the elegant view with an orange reflection on the river. Yet the beauty was veiled soon later it was beginning to dark, signaling that it was time to leave.

In YHA hostel, I crashed with Zhang (that Japanese look guy) when he was about to pack and leaving. I decided to have dinner with him and on the way, he went to meet little Ni who was working in a bar (3rd day), Guangdong people, and I remembered I met her on my first day arriving in Yangshuo. She was a talkative and open minded 20 year old, speaking in a native Cantonese accent which was funny to me.

I had a lot of fun talking to them in Cantonese, and understanding more how a person they were. The girl was skipping her work later (she decided to quit!) and went sleep in our room, and Zhang decided to stay for another night.

In room 205, I met one British, one Scottish, and one Japanese who were playing 7's (God knows what game it was). Combining with my 2 friends, I became a translator and helping them to understand each other, it was a fun game to me though. By midnight, Zhang invited me for supper, he really had a good stomach as he had 2 plates of fried rice earlier at dinner. We chatted a bit and I told him it was surreal to come to Yangshuo as I met so many friends, yet none would stay longer than 2 days...sigh, it was a journey of life, shrinkage version, where people come, people go, just the way it was. You could whine, you could sigh, but you could not stop it from happening.

~Chapter 7 - Long Goodbye~

Today's the day! I still woke up early, had a pleasant northern breakfast, and bought a T-shirt for roomy before coming back packing my stuff. Everybody was still asleep, so I had to sneak like a thief and tried very hard not to make a sound when I wrapped the plastic bags into my bag.

I felt dejected to leave, because I was making a new bunch of friends and enjoyed the fun we spent together, and hoping to find out more of them. Yet I had to leave, for reality, for real life, for work. Zhang woke up before I was heading to the door, I shake his hand and said my farewell, checked out, leaving my watch on the bed without realizing it until I went to bus station and had to return to collect it. I said my final farewell to Zhang again and this time was for real, the bus left at 10.30am for Guilin, signing off my 4 day stays in Yangshuo. I did not leave any contact nor getting any info from Zhang, because I knew this friendship would start and ended eventually in Yangshuo, it was just the way it went, same with every other people I met there, our lines crossed in Yangshuo and would not meet again. Pessimistic me!

I sang a sorrowful song in the bus to weep for my newly found, now gone friends. I was falling into a whirlpool of depression again. But an hour later, with the arriving of Guilin station, my spirit was lighten up once again; I told myself to be happy because this was an unbelievably great trip I had, another milestone to record my exploration map in this planet. So I went on, lingered a little in Flowers YHA and train station before heading to Guangxi Academy University.

This was supposed an ancient palace during dunno-what-dynasty, but now it became a famous university with ancient buildings, and interesting landscape structuring. I actually pretended as a student to sneak into the campus to avoid the RMB35 normal visitor's entrance fee, gegege (evil). All the campus buildings were in bloody red and egg yolk yellow colours, while in a traditional Chinese stone architecture, making them very vividly sharp for attentions. I thought it must be pretty cool to study at such places, simultaneously sighing for my previous UTM campus.

I then had a sinful KFC lunch at Zheng Yang pedestrian shopping street, fell asleep for 15mins until 3pm before continue my journey to the Twin pagodas. I took a night shot on them on my first arriving night, now it was a day scene, shiningly erected on an artificial lake, grand and flawless. The park was free, so I lingered around taking my time to spend this lazy afternoon. The Elephant hill was my final destination which was situated about 1km from my current location. With my bag's strap hanging on my shoulder, pulling the weight further down, I still had no complains to walk to my destination.

The entrance was RMB25, another RMB25 to take raft to Elephant hill and my budget was dried. As a result, I could only walked around and taking glimpses at this famous but over-commercialized attraction. Finally, I called it done by taking a very early 5pm bus to airport which my flight was scheduled at 9.25pm!!

I spent the next 2 hours reading the book (Stupid White Man by Michael Moore, borrowed from Neil) I brought which I had not touched at all during the whole trip (:P). It might be guilt effect that I finally finished the book which I had dragged for almost a month. As soon as I was done, the call for boarding was announced, and here went my memory again. So long Guilin, so long Longsheng, so long Yangshuo.....

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Total Expense = RMB2013.00

Still flight ticket was the evil expense of all travels. I wonder why not we could have something like Air-Asia here, so that "everyone can fly today". If I took bus, it would cost me around RMB300 (half air ticket price) and 18hours journey. Headache for tickets

Although this was a lonely "front"packing (I carried my bag instead of lifting it on my back), but I met a lot of people and enjoyed every moment of it with them. I thought this was the real spirit of backpacking, I mean "front"packing~ piff~

If my life was meant to dedicate for traveling, then here I had just took a few more steps for my future. Hail to the world and pray for peace

Author: ckeone       Date: July 20, 2006

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