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Trekking on Mount Huangshan
  Trekking on Mount Huangshan

"Huang shan gui lai bu kan shan."

The Zhongwen laoshi (Chinese teacher) spoke it like some secret mantra, there was no escaping the lure of going up there and conquering Huang Shan, or the Yellow Mountain. To people in China, Yellow Mountain encapsulates all there is to know about mountains. It's like New York. If you make it there, you'll make it anywhere.

The entire mountain is about 250 square miles in area, and the summit (Lian Hua Ling) is about 1873 meters above sea level. Huang Shan is regarded as the number one intriguing mountain in China with rare pine trees, unusual rock formations, scenary of sea of clouds, hot springs, etc. The main scenery of Huang Shan is comprised of two lakes, three waterfalls, 24 creeks, and 72 peaks. Among then, the 'Tiando Peak' is extremely steep, with a flat top surrounded by dancing clouds. It was nicknamed the 'Gathering Place of Fairies'. The cloud of sea in Huang Shan can be divided into the 'Yellow Sea', 'Sea of Heaven', 'Front Sea', 'Back Sea', 'West Sea', and 'North Sea'. The source of Huang Shan's hot springs came from the 'Zhusha Peak'. The temperature of the hot spring is about 42 C year round.

And so I made my way to Huang Shan, fired by wanderlust and that stinging sensation of impending victory a la Karate Kid. Only once faced with the mammoth challenger, I felt more like a wilting flower than the young warrior-apprentice. Before me were steep ridges, the whole climb of which was estimated to take five to six hours, non-stop. Suddenly the cable car seemed a very attractive option.

Be brave, the wind suddenly whispered in chants. Yeah, in English. Only to notice I was just psyching myself up, letting the elements of nature flow through me and silencing all others.

Mount Huangshan, Anhui province, ChinaThe first two hours went by like a stroll in a park, except for the steep ascent. But we all had the strength of early-morning breakfast and the climate was a magic of dewy showers and the rays of the sun struggling through cotton clouds. I put on my Discman and drank in the green mountain view before me.

"Tang Wen (my Chinese name :-), let's go! Go! Go! Go!" My testosterone-fuelled colleagues distracted me from my reverie, and off we went further up. Here, the clouds now ruled, fogging everything in its path save for some precious seconds when the mountains and other stone formations reveal their glorious selves. Miss that one chance and it's another five to fifteen minutes of waiting.

But the task of climbing is more urgent now, the steps steeper and dangerously close to unforgiving ravines. We're all struggling to breathe normally, our air-conditioned lungs unaccustomed to thinning air no thanks to the sudden altitude shift. Fainting is not an option and one has to keep his/her senses in proper balance. Or it's the endless taunting, medical attention, or the fall from grace. None of which promises a good story back at the office.

And so in between camera clicks, wobbling knees, heart palpitations, I trudged on aimlessly. My legs suddenly felt like they were walking lead supported by a crutch, every step like being magnetized by earth and never wanting to come up. Always, there is the nagging thought of walking back--at least it's easier downwards.

Panting, near tears, half-limping, my legs numbing, alternative rock music started juicing my nerves up while trekking through spectacles of amazing rock formations, pine trees and misty mountain clouds. I stopped by a spring, the cool virgin water instantly but temporarily taking the load off my tired face, neck and arms...

...when the battery on my CD player went dead.

I stopped by a dock ten steps away, an effort which felt like forever. Breathing deeply, I meditated, eyes closed, recomposed myself, and allowed nature to take over. Five minutes must have slipped by because my friends have gone ahead. I was alone now. I don't know what got into me but I just smiled, felt wonderful about the silence, the air becoming familiar, filling my lungs with renewed wisdom.

When I opened my eyes, there it was--the mountain as clear as day, the mist surrounding it serving only to adorn its already beautiful mystique. Then the pre-noon sky threatened to shower again. I got up and prepared for the final battle.

I found my footing back in place for the next ten minutes then felt lead again. But I was able to buy time and the gentle rain washed off my collected sweat, refreshing my confidence--making the ascent less unbearable this time. Then I hear noises. I finally reached the halfway stopover!

It was time to replenish--bottled water has never tasted so good, chocolates are a real delight, and anything that touches my hand and stems my hunger turns to gold. Fifteen minutes and it's back to the hiking trail. Only this time it is a guided trek and the paths less steep, thankfully. And the views are marvelous--the fogs serve as curtains hiding-revealing the impossible rock-and-tree landscapes that inspired so many Chinese paintings--they turned out to be real!

We finished the entire trail towards the hotel by 3PM hungry yet fulfilled, tired but energized, and very thankful for the chance to recharge and to relax our swollen feet. Taking my shirt and pants off, I succumbed to oblivion, and all I could remember was that hotel bed has never felt so sweet.

The following day is the rise to the summit when the real climb begins. Another six hours and this time everything we pass through becomes my vision of heaven--mountains nestled in the sea of clouds, the greenest of painting-like trees, the clearest of skies, and the sun golden and pure. I wanted to take it all in for myself and just stay there; we were so blessed to not deal with so much fog that day.

At one of the "lower" peaks, I let the group go ahead while I savored the sweetest scent of pureness, literally touched the clear sky before me, sat then slept on one of the tree branches, listened to the wonderful music of breeze. Now I know that you can indeed paint the colors of the wind with your eyes closed, quieting all thoughts and letting the beauty of the universe unfold.

Ultimately, I reached the summit, the Apex of Lotus Peak, clocking in 1864 meters above sea level. If I had had enough stamina (plus food and water!) left like some of my warrior-friends did, I would have also laid claim to the Apex of Celestial Peak and the Bright Summit Peak.

But inside me was the most celestial fulfillment beyond conquest, beyond claims that I've reached several peaks of the Yellow Mountain. Because that day I touched heaven while Nature and I had a nice chat. And that was more than I could ask for. Coming down, I decided to reward myself with a very relaxing hot spring bath, after which we all wolfed through our lunch-dinner.

Next stop: Chengdu, Sichuan. The land of the gentle pandas, fiery dishes, and the colorful waters that Chinese say rival all others, thus the mantra "Jiu zhai gui lai bu kan shui".

Author: Philippe Date: May 09, 2006

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